Quilt Borders
Adding Borders
A common problem that is seen on many quilts is excess fullness in either the border or the quilt body, preventing the quilt from lying flat.
A wavy ruffled border is a sign of too much fullness in the border and “tenting” in the middle of the quilt is a sign of too much fullness in the body of the quilt.
In either case, because the extra fabric cannot to be stitched down smoothly, which may result in tucks and pleats being stitched into the top during the quilting.
Both of these problems can be avoided by:
- taking careful measurements when adding borders;
- cutting border fabrics on the straight grain;
- attaching the borders by matching registration points.
Hints for Planning Borders
- The total width of the finished border should not be bigger than the size of one quilt block, otherwise the border can become more important than the quilt design. One notable exception to this "quilt rule" is the medallion quilt.
- Generally the narrowest border would be closest to the center working out to the largest on the edge.
- There is no limit to the number of border pieces that can be used.
- On a scrap quilt the border fabrics do not have to appear in the quilt, in fact they don't even have to be related as long as "color value balance" works!
- If you have to join fabric together to make up the full length of a border, use a bias join. It uses more fabric but is less bulky and much less visible.
- To calculate the length required for a border, measure the quilt at least one block width in from the edge rather than running the tape along the raw edge, as this edge often becomes stretched and fluted with handling.
- Take measurements in several places to verify that the quilt is "square". If there is very little discrepancy between the measurements you are safe using an average.
- If one measurement is more than 1 cm smaller than the others you should check the seams and adjust where possible.
Mitered Borders
Making Mitered Borders
Measure the quilt in both directions to calculate a “base” measurement for each border.
Do not take the measurements on the edge of the quilt as the seams may have opened a little and will give a false result. Instead position the tape measure approximately 20 -30 cm in from the edge at both ends. Take a third measurement through the center of the quilt.
Now average the three measurements to find the “base measurement". However, If there is more than a 1cm variation in the measurements it means that the piecing seams are not even so go back to the quilt and adjust seams before adding border. When your quilt sits and hangs flat, you will be pleased that you took the time to do this!
To calculate the lengths that need to be cut for each border you must add an allowance for the miter as follows: “base measurement” + (width of the border x 2) + approx 20cm.
For example,
if the quilt is 150 cm x100 cm, the borders will be 15 cm wide
150 + 30 + 20 = 200 cm: cut 2 strips for vertical border
100 +30 + 20 = 150 cm: cut 2 strips for horizontal borders.
If using more than one border, strip piece the borders together before cutting to length. They are then treated like a striped fabric when joining them to the quilt.
Find the center point in the length of the border. Now working out from the centre, mark half the “base measurement” length in both directions. You should have a "tongue" left over at each end which is equal to the extra that you have allowed for the miter
- Mark quarter points on the border and divide quilt edge into half way point and quarter points.
- Stitch border to quilt matching quarter and half way points. Be sure to start and finish seam exactly ¼" from the raw edges.
- Stitch one of the adjacent borders onto the quilt in the same manner, remembering to pin first border excess well out of way before adding the next border.
Make a miter before continuing to add the other sides:
- Fold the quilt in half diagonally so that the right sides are together
- Pin match the seams so that they are aligned together.
- Use the 45° angle line, marked on your ruler, to pencil a 45° stitching line from the corner of the quilt to the raw edge of the border.
- Be sure to start the line exactly at the spot where the border stitching finished otherwise you will end up with a pleat.
- Stitch on the line. Check miter, trim excess fabric away and press seam open.
Continue adding the remaining borders and miter the corners in the same manner.
The Secret to Making a Smooth Mitered Corner
- stop stitching exactly 1/4" from corner of the quilt.
- make the stitching line at an exact 45º angle.
- keep the corner at an exact 90º angle.
- be sure that the border sits flat with out any excess fullness around the corner seam.
Butted T Top Border
How to Attach a Butted T Top Border
Measure the longest sides of the quilt top first. Take 3 measurements and use the average measurement unless there is more than 1 cm variation in the measurements.
Do not take the measurements on the edge of the quilt as the seams may have opened a little and will give a false result. Instead position the tape measure approximately 20 -30 cm in from the edge at both sides. Take the third measurement through the center of the quilt.
If there is more than a 1 cm variation in the measurements it means that the piecing seams are not even so go back to the quilt and adjust seams before adding the borders. When your quilt sits & hangs flat you will be pleased that you took the time to do this!
Cut the two long borders to the “average” vertical unit measurement and desired width.
If it is necessary to join the strips to make a strip long enough for the border use a bias seam join. Bias seams create a diagonal line that tends to “trick” the eye so that the seam becomes less obvious.
Stitch the borders to the quilt top by matching registration points - divide each length of border into quarters and pin match to quarter positions on quilt top. This helps to prevent buckles and waves occurring as you stitch because you have an even amount of fabric to ease together in each quarter of the length of the quilt
Press seams towards the borders.
Measure, cut and apply horizontal borders in same manner. This time including the vertical borders when measuring the quilt.
If using several borders in the butted "T" method put number one border on all edges before adding border number two, etc.
When making multiple borders always work in the same order each time so that all the “T” joins face same way on each corner.
Quilt Backing
Choosing Your Quilt Backing Fabric
If you provide your own backing fabric please remember the following points:
- Backing fabrics should be of 100% cotton fabric of a similar weight & feel to the fabrics used in the quilt top.
- The use of “sheeting” as a backing fabric is not recommended as the weave may be too dense to allow even needle penetration.
- For best results choose a backing that is a similar depth of color to the quilt top, as the thread color will be matched to the quilt top. The same color thread (or at least the same depth of color) will be used in the bobbin to prevent "freckles" of highly contrasting bobbin thread showing on the quilt top.
- Patterned fabrics make more interesting backings than plain homespun and help disguise a contrasting colored bobbin thread.5. The backing should be cut a minimum of 15 cm longer & 15 cm wider than the quilt top (e.g.: Length + 15 cm ..... Width + 15 cm)
- "Square" up the backing so that all edges are straight and the corners form at right angles.
- If it is necessary to join fabric to make the correct size backing, remember to cut off the selvedges before stitching pieces together.
- If you like to "piece" the backings for your quilts, be careful about the seam placement. You will find it very difficult to attach a binding if the seams on the backing line up with the edge of the quilt after quilting.
What should you do if you have already made your backing but now find that it is not big enough?
- DO NOT simply add a different piece of fabric to one edge:Doing this could result in the backing seam corresponding with the edge of the top.
- As all battings use up backing fabric at a different rate, a small strip of the "other" fabric could be included on the edge of the back when the quilt is finished, resulting in a look that may not please the eye.
- A better way to extend a completed backing piece is to cut it approximately in the center and insert the extra strip of fabric in a more central position. This is a little more work, as it requires two seams rather than one, but it gives a more pleasing result that looks planned.
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