National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center
Material Culture of the Overland Emigrants
Fabric and Blankets
The emigrants took a variety of blankets and other fabric items with them over the Oregon Trail. They had items made of breechcloth, domestic cotton, bleach linen, wool, sailcloth, mackinaw and canvas. Many people bought or traded for buffalo skin robes and blankets, and used them as part of their bedding. Others took their beds and bedding along and had calico sheets of various designs and colors, along with different blankets and comforters. William Smedley wrote in his diary: “Our bed of blankets and buffaloes was arranged and we soon retired for a night’s repose, which was calm, peaceful and refreshing- the first time in my recollection that I slept out of doors” (Smedley, 8). Charlotte Stearns Pengra wrote: “Have washed a very large washing…made a pair of calico cases for pillows…those who come this journey should have their pillows covered with dark calico, and sheets colored, white is not suitable” (Pengra, 20). Captain David DeWolf even acquired a panther skin, which he traded with an Indian for (DeWolf, 204). Since panthers are not native to North America, this was a rare item that must have been traded many times among fur traders or explorers and Indians. Finally, J. Robert Brown wrote: “While on this hill [Laramie’s Peak]…I found a good, green Spanish blanket…” (Brown, 48).
Many emigrants brought blankets and skins with them over the Trail, but most also traded with Indians at some point during the journey, or picked up items left behind by other emigrants as well. There were also many trading posts that sold these types of necessities all along the Trail. Domestic cotton could be purchased in some areas for around 40 cents, and elk and deer skins could be purchased for a few dollars (May, 26). In common supply towns, such as Independence, MO., mackinaw blankets could be purchased for $10-$16 a pair. Supplies were limited at these towns, so it was probably cheaper to get items such as blankets from the Indians, which is one reason trade may have been such a common occurrence between the two groups.
India rubber blankets, clothing and supplies were things that emigrants commonly carried with them. Caoutchouc was a substance that the natives of Central and South America used for 500 years, if not more, before it was discovered in the New World by Euro-Americans. The name of the substance, which was the predecessor of India rubber and other such products, came from the word “cahuchu,” which meant “weeping wood,” and described the latex that oozed from the bark of the tree. It was not until the 1800’s that Americans realized that rubber could be used for much more than just making pencil erasers. The fact that this substance could “rub out” marks is the reason that it was then named “rubber” (William, 4).
Something close to a “rubber boom” erupted in the US around the 1830’s. Many people tried but failed to develop a rubber product that would last year-round. Charles Goodyear was the first person to successfully transform rubber into a useful product, the process of which put Goodyear into debt and involved in several lawsuits. However, in 1837 he received patent US 240 for his work and experimentation with rubber. He made his first discovery after years of research and experimenting while he was living in New York. Then, in 1843, Goodyear discovered that if you removed the sulphur from rubber then heated it, it would retain its elasticity. This process is also called vulcanization, and essentially made the rubber waterproof (Van Dulken, 206). The California gold rush and the Westward expansion aided in opening the market for India rubber products, and in 1850 it was advertised in the New York Post that emigrants “…should bear in mind the importance of providing themselves with India rubber goods, such as coats, cloaks, pouches, caps, wading boots, camp blankets, tents, air mattresses, pillows, etc” (Williams, 4).
“…a sad Lucy Cooke wrote to her relatives after discovering her provision box filled with water: ‘I cried with vexation but finding it did no good set to work & took everything out & hung up to dry my towels & tablecloths were all wringing wet & so stained also Sissy’s white clothes which I had so nicely starched & ironed ready for her use on arriving at Sacramento” (Williams, 62). India rubber was basically the Gore-Tex of the mid-1800’s and it was a valuable item for emigrants to carry with them, either for crossing rivers or for protecting their belongings from bad weather. “Pa bought us a nice pair of waterproof blankets to put on the ground under our bedding, so now when it rains we’ll do better” (Cooke, 25). Narcissa Whitman also wrote: “Our tablecloth is an India rubber cloth and when it rains [it is used] as a cloak” (Williams, 4). India rubber products were most likely produced in New England, but could be bought just about anywhere. Lucius Fairchild wrote: “When I was in St. Louis I bought of Gross an india rubber cloak with a cap on it. It is a nice thing to keep the rain off and will keep my delicate self from catching cold” (Fairchild, 18). These types of artifacts are rare because rubber is not a durable material.
In the nineteenth century, green seemed to be a very popular color. A good amount of clothing was made with green fabric, and certain green materials were even put to a more creative use. Margaret Frink mentioned in her diary: “…the wagon was lined with a green cloth, to make it pleasant and soft for the eye, with three or four large pockets on each side, to hold many conveniences” (Brown, 35). The Frinks were apparently from Cincinnati, and considering that they also took with them a feather bed and several looking glasses, it seems they had more money than the average family, which may be one reason why they cared so much about the interior decoration of their wagon.
Some people even went beyond the cloth lining and added carpeting to their wagons. Carpets were a symbol of comfort, so it was a pleasant convenience for people to have some kind of a carpet piece in their wagons to make it feel more like home. In 1800 carpets were uncommon in most American households. Most homes had bare floors, often strewn with sand. As the manufacturing of textiles expanded, products such as carpeting became less expensive in proportion to their resources. Women and men took great pride in decorating their homes with such an item, both for style and comfort. Not every home shared in this luxury, and even some who could afford it saw no point in spending money on such things (Larkin, 137-139). These items were purchased more so out of desire, not necessity, which is an indicator about the class of people who took carpets with them over the Trail.
Brussels carpet, which was very popular in the 1860’s, filled many homes. Diamond or square patterns were the preferred carpet designs of the 1860’s, while in the 1870’s floral or geometric floral designs came into style. Farming families and city-dwellers alike decorated their homes this way, but in the country the emphasis was on comfort, and not for show or display. Ingrain or Venetian carpets tended to be more affordable designs (Sutherland, 33-35).
Quilts and comforters were also very common and valued possessions on the Trail. Quilting was a social activity that brought women together. It was a time for socializing and a time for work. Quilting in groups allowed women to accomplish a large task quickly, then to reciprocate the help. This type of work was a distinction of rural life and was a valued activity. It was also a task distinctly for women, and was an important skill for young girls to learn. Quilting also brought out a sense of competition in women, and although they were not violent, many verbal arguments developed amongst the participants. At the end of it all, they drank tea and completed their day with a meal, and all usually departed in good spirits. Young, unmarried girls often quilted and ate together, then ended their days with the arrival of young men and dancing or games (Larkin, 269-270).
Finished quilts were often artistic masterpieces that adorned a bed, as well as illustrated the skill and craft of the women who took part in the quilt’s creation. Utility quilts were the exception, because they were pieced together for warmth instead of artistic decoration. Friendship quilts were common among some circles of New England women (Larkin, 269-270). Many women stitched quilts together along the Trail, or before they left home. Quilts were reflections of a woman’s skills, experiences, memories and creativity.
Citations:
Brown, J.E. Memories of a Forty-Niner. Edited by Katie E. Blood. New Haven: Associate Publishers of American Records, 1907.
Brown, Sharon. “What the Covered Wagon Covered.” Overland Journal 3 (1986): 32-39.
Cooke, Lucy Rutledge. Crossing the Plains in 1852. Fairfield, Washington: Ye Galleon Press, no date given.
DeWolf, Captain David. “Diary of the Overland Trail and Letters from Captain David DeWolf.” Edited by Edwin Cox. Illinois State Historical Society (1925).
Fairchild, Lucius. “California Letters of Lucius Fairchild.” Edited by Joseph Schafer. Wisconsin Historical Society 31 (1931).
Larkin, Jack. The Reshaping of Everyday Life, 1790-1840. New York: Harper Perennial, 1988.
May, Richard. A Sketch of a Migrating Family to California in 1848. Fairfield, Washington: Ye Galleon Press, 1991.
Pengra, Charlotte Stearns. Diary of Charlotte Stearns Pengra, 1853. Eugene, Oregon: Lane County Historical Society, no date given.
Smedley, William. Across the Plains in ’62. Fairfield, Washington: Ye Galleon Press, 1916.
Sutherland, Daniel E. The Expansion of Everyday Life, 1860-1876. Fayettville: University of Arkansas Press, 1989.
Van Dulken, Stephen. Inventing the 19th Century. New York: University Press, 2001.
Williams, Jacqueline. “India Rubber Kept them Dry.” Overland Journal 1 (1996): 4-8.
Williams, Jacqueline. Wagon Wheel Kitchens: Food on the Oregon Trail. Lawrence, Kansas: University Press of Kansas, 1993.
Pioneer quotes about blankets and fabrics....
“Our bed of blankets and buffaloes [buffalo robes and blankets] was arranged and we soon retired for a night’s repose, which was calm, peaceful and refreshing- the first time in my recollection that I slept out of doors” (Smedley, 8).
“Have washed a very large washing, unpacked dried and packed the clothing- made a pair of calico cases for pillows and cooked two meals- done brave, I think. those who come this journey should have their pillows covered with dark calico, and sheets colored, white is not suitable” (Pengra, 20).
“Pa bought us a nice pair of waterproof blankets to put on the ground under our bedding, so now when it rains we’ll do better” (Cooke, 27).
Narcissa Whitman stated: “Our table cloth is an India rubber cloth and when it rains [it is used] as a cloak” (Williams, 4).
“When I was in St. Louis I bought of Gross an india rubber cloak with a cap on it. It is a nice thing to keep the rain off and will keep my delicate self from catching cold” (Fairchild, 18).
“We stopt to noon on a small creek of spring water here we were visited by a few Indians. I traded with them for a panther skin” (DeWolf, 204).
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